Skip to main content

Post Eclipse Blues

We moved on - it was a great few days but marred slightly by the heat.  Everyone was keen to find somewhere cooler. We all went our separate ways.  Our hosts went up back home where they live full time and our fellow travellers went off up north - driving through France heading for a ferry home...  left to our own devices we went to Tortosa to find the delicious olives and replenish supplies - but it was a lot of effort, the heat continued... we found the olives and replacement trousers for Dr Fred - and a new hat as he had been close to hopeless the day before,and managed to lose his hat and stick... and shred his trousers (dont ask). We had a lunch in a local cafe - all very civilised and then onbto the next chapter of our adventure.
Once out of Tortosa we drove up toward the Pyrenees looking for somewhere cooler to sleep.  But the heat kept coming ..at one point it was reading 41°. It was brutal - I was spraying Dr Fred with water and eventually we decided enough was enough and we stopped at a carpark suggested by searchforsites.  It was an interesting place, deep in a gorge - completely empty of people or cars, but full of graffitti... it made us uneasy - it felt like a local youth hang out area - gut instinct? We'll never know - in spite ofthe glorious huge birds  soaring across the gorge we left and moved on, eventually stopping at a clean, not too busy, Aire about 40k's up the road. We were hot, tired and hungry. It was good to stop.   We sat up late as we wanted to keep the van open as much as possible... we couldnt sleep on an Aire with the doors open and we were still registering 30°+ in the van - but sleep was advancing so we battened down the hatches and had a very restless night.... to be perfectly honest we were fed up... it was a bit of a come down from a great few days with friends a superb eclipse and now we have to make our own Greek salad!!!

In the morning we both felt better. I found a potential campsite in the mountains and rang them....we really needed to get cool qnd start planning what next. It felt like our original plan of travelling to Italy was just too far given the hot weather situation. 
The countryside was very pretty edpecially with the mountains... much greener as we headed north - the small towns and villages we passed through were busy and full of higgly piggly buildings.  The roads got windier and steeper.

We drove up a seriously steep narrow- quite frankly scary road to the camping Graus. Its a great site - not very big and really friendly.  Theres a river/stream and cool temperatures🤩🤩 we setup and just breathed huge sighs of relief... cool air... I had a shower and even turned the hot water up- it was like a different world. 
We chatted to some french people who had been there a few days - they didnt see the eclipse it was too cloudy - they didn't seem bothered. 

After a late tea we went for a walk up the valley to the dam.   Someone had left a fairly intact jaw bone of a wild boar on the signpost.  Dr Fred wouldn't let me bring it home... to be fair there was still quite a bit of rotting flesh involved so it would have smelled - 🙁lost opportunity🙁  it did give the dark and gloomy entrance to the woods quite a gothic witchy vibe though🤣. 
  
Nice wander but we couldnt get on the dam it was all padlocked off.  Dr Fred carried on up the track... I went back to make sure I couldn't sneak the boar bones in - not an option. 
We decided to stop a couple of days... recover from heat exhaustion and plan a bit more for our next move. Just not sure what to do.... 

The camping is very pretty,  well looked after, totally surrounded by soaring forested mountains. There were not so many flies and seem to be less mozzies... loads of butterflies...  Thunderstorms were forcasted for the evening but they never arrived.  The next day dawned sunny and hot and more thunder storms were forcast for lunch time  - the skies darkened... brightened.... turned blue, purple and finally late afternoon a deep steely grey and the rain deluged.... thunder rolled around the mountains, lightening flashed...(who needs wild boar skulls for gothic effect now🤣) 

The rain bounced off the van - huge rain almost filled the washing up bowl-  it was strangely cathartic - one extreme to another - the world is doomed and we are spectators....
I checked out the UK news... wildfire warnings on mobile phones... Mr Burnham still offering piecemeal distractions while agreeing to drill, bomb, appease Trump etc.. racism thrives, standards are still double - thank goodness for the little light relief nature can offer.  

We decided to eat in the site restaurant- we had to book... It was an ok meal...outside the rain had made the evening cool but inside the restaurant it was really warm, it was very busy which made it noisy as well as hot... we escaped but it was actually too chilly to sit outside!!! 

We went back to the van and had a nightcap while laid in bed deciding to check weather and head for northern Italy.  
Dr Fred got up at the crack of sparrows to walk to Pic de la Serra de Causes. Via Noarre. He cant bear to leave the mountains without an explore..... it was a bigger hike than he had reckoned on so we booked a third night before heading off into the wilds of Andorra.





Comments

  1. I can completely sympathise with your post eclipse blues, I'd be no good in that heat. Glad you found somewhere cooler in the end.
    How very unreasonable of Dr Fred not to let you scavenge a foetid boar's jawbone, can't see there'd have been any issue letting that fester in the van in the temperatures you're experiencing :D
    I hope you both regain your travel mojo, will be very jealous if you tick Andorra off the list (somewhere we haven't been to yet). Look forward to hearing about your onwards plans.
    Stay cool (it's quite overcast here today but still humid), xC

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Autumnal Garden Days

I love these (rare) warm sunny late summer days and there is all sorts of lovely things  going on in my garden... I counted 12 red admiral butterflies whizzing around the over grown ivy which I had been about to hack down but then left until the flutterbies have finished with it... The late blooms add a dash of colour and the daisy strewn lawn is littered with autumnal leaves, debris from my brief half an hour of slash and burn and the stone wall is covered in glorious soft moss all shiny and tactile with a few late nasturtiums loitering. I've hacked out the brambles for this year, sadly I missed the fruit as we were away, ditto the strawberries, we never seem to get the fruit before the birds so I've made space and moved the plants that were getting swamped and so not performing to their potential - hopefully next year they will literally blossom now they have light and room to flourish.

Total Eclipse Spain 2026

Eclipse day!!!!  Most of the photos on here were taken by friends...my phone died...  I dont use names on here but you know who you are thank you....  This will be Dr Freds 8th eclipse and my 6th... I have 100% clear viewing and its continued that way. Our friends have this amazing house tucked away on the side of a hill - fortuitously right on the centre line of the 2026 eclipse.  And... to make it even better they have a roof terrace which gave us an almost perfect elevation to see the total eclipse in all its glory.   Dr Fred wasnt sure at first - he worried that as totality was so close to sunset we might not be high enough before the sun disappeared under the ridge.  So, the evenings leading up to the night of the actual event, required a lot of balancing on the roof with spirit levels at various degrees and exact timings for exact positioning of the sun and considerable maths.... yes it was complicated but it p...

Alesund

Our final destination stop was Alesund. This is a very pretty town in southern Norway built on a peninsula. All the houses are painted pretty colours and a lot of the architecture is all very Art Nouveau based. This is because the town itself was completely burnt to the ground In 1904 by a fire for which they never found the original cause. The whole town had to be rebuilt and this became a huge National Effort and a lot of prominent and up and coming architects flocked to the town to stick there 20 pence in. Consequently the town is very heavily Art Nouveau which was very fashionable at the time. There is this wonderful Museum just off the harbour which is a very beautiful Art Nouveau house. It has amazing panelling, doors, wallpaper, and it's all furnished with beautiful art Nouveau Furniture. It also house a collection of of enameled Art Nouveau Trinkets,boxes, spoons, jewellery, very very beautiful.   There is an interesting collection of old books and paintings a...