Agios Nikolaos in Crete was pleasantly charming... I cant put my finger on why but it was so much nicer than Thira in Santorini. Simpler, less busy but just a nicer softer vibe. Obviously its not so dramatic and perhaps thats the key - theres nothing to 'live up' to... A small town with a dense tourist centre and dwellings sprawling away from the coast it feels compact and easier to navigate. Theres a large marina and then a little picturesque lake in the middle of the main town... makes a nice change from a market square. Its still very touristy but definately less crowded... wider streets - same tat but less hassley. We wandered round the small lake and into the shopping area. Theres a serious lack of supermarkets and we ended up buying olive oil from a shop at the top of town. There was alot of choice... brands ... numbers... in the end I just picked the prettiest tins. We finally found some rocks... nothing too spectacular ...