We spent an often cloudy, very windy day (even the odd rain spot) driving
round the Island of Lanzarote experiencing the various influences and art of
Cesar Manrique. Manrique was a local
artist who was passionate about his home land and also about nature. He very
quickly realised that Lanzarote was a special place but in danger of being
ruined by tourism and strove to influence all developments to keep the
integrity and beauty of the Island intact.
As a result much of the architecture is low rise and allows natural
features to emerge or not be destroyed but more incorporated – he managed to
get all the right people on board at the right time and although he did employ
some extreme tactics – for example taking industrial diggers out in the middle
of the night to remove advertising hoardings as he objected to seeing signs for
Coca Cola and other familiar brands when nature was much nicer - he has helped
to create a pretty island.
He felt very strongly that the island was in danger of being over
developed and that a few people would make a lot of money at the expense of the
many inhabitants and nature.
His art is scattered around the island but more so are his developments
– there are many examples of his architectural influences. He lived on the island and has two houses
which can be visited. The first where he lived for a large number of years is
more of a gallery and homage to Manriques work and his art collection. Its
really spectacular – interesting underground caverns carved out of the volcano,
with lava corridors joining them together – each ‘room’ is open to the sky but
fully furnished and displaying both Manriques art and that of other artists he
has collected. The second house is far
more conventional, and more personal, it is not so much a gallery but a glimpse
into the home life side of Manrique and while it is a palatial, nicely
appointed and furnished space, for me it lacked any wow factor and was only
lifted by the odd display of some of Manriques lively more colourful art. These pieces were influenced by carnival
masks and elevated a potentially drab space – but then again we know I love a
colourfix!!!
His work is heavily influenced by other Spanish artists, Gaudi, Picasso
and the house itself reminds me of Salvador Dali’s dwellings on mainland Spain.
He is also responsible for designing and implement some of the spaces
that have become Lanzarotes biggest tourist attractions – is this ironic? We watched a film about him and it was
difficult to decide whether he was a force for good or getting on the band
wagon himself!!! For a man who was fighting against the destruction of the
island though buildings he had a big hand in development, but on his terms and done
only in what he considered to be tasteful and complementary to the
landscape. But that is only his
opinion!! I think maybe now if he was
alive he might be a bit surprised at how his work has actually impacted on the
economics of tourism.
There are several places he has designed, the Mirador Del Rio being a
popular spot – yes it is an amazing achievement a viewing platform cut out of
the volcano side with magnificent views across the bay but costly to enter –
especially if you have a big family - and all for a designer viewpoint which
incorporates nature but the view technically is there for free. I’m not sure it doesn’t contravene his
values!!
There are other gardens and houses designed by Manrique scattered around
the island but we gave most of them a miss we may do them another day – as
usual we are trying to fit too much into the days and do too much – We went for
a wander through the volcanic lave rubble on the ‘beach’ at Orzola at the
northern tip of the island and had tapas for lunch in a beachside café, the
wind whipping the serviettes away and while keeping us cool it was slightly
hard work trying to be relaxed ha ha…
Eventually we felt we had packed enough art, culture, tapas and café con
leches into the day and retired home for a wee siesta and then birthday
cocktails – courtesy of two friends back home – at a lovely seafront cocktail
lounge.
Now they look like very interesting cocktails, wish I had been there to sample. Maggs
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