Cesar Manriques artist and eco warrior?

We spent an often cloudy, very windy day (even the odd rain spot) driving round the Island of Lanzarote experiencing the various influences and art of Cesar Manrique.  Manrique was a local artist who was passionate about his home land and also about nature. He very quickly realised that Lanzarote was a special place but in danger of being ruined by tourism and strove to influence all developments to keep the integrity and beauty of the Island intact.

As a result much of the architecture is low rise and allows natural features to emerge or not be destroyed but more incorporated – he managed to get all the right people on board at the right time and although he did employ some extreme tactics – for example taking industrial diggers out in the middle of the night to remove advertising hoardings as he objected to seeing signs for Coca Cola and other familiar brands when nature was much nicer - he has helped to create a pretty island. 

He felt very strongly that the island was in danger of being over developed and that a few people would make a lot of money at the expense of the many inhabitants and nature.

His art is scattered around the island but more so are his developments – there are many examples of his architectural influences.  He lived on the island and has two houses which can be visited. The first where he lived for a large number of years is more of a gallery and homage to Manriques work and his art collection. Its really spectacular – interesting underground caverns carved out of the volcano, with lava corridors joining them together – each ‘room’ is open to the sky but fully furnished and displaying both Manriques art and that of other artists he has collected.  The second house is far more conventional, and more personal, it is not so much a gallery but a glimpse into the home life side of Manrique and while it is a palatial, nicely appointed and furnished space, for me it lacked any wow factor and was only lifted by the odd display of some of Manriques lively more colourful art.  These pieces were influenced by carnival masks and elevated a potentially drab space – but then again we know I love a colourfix!!!

His work is heavily influenced by other Spanish artists, Gaudi, Picasso and the house itself reminds me of Salvador Dali’s dwellings on mainland Spain.

He is also responsible for designing and implement some of the spaces that have become Lanzarotes biggest tourist attractions – is this ironic?  We watched a film about him and it was difficult to decide whether he was a force for good or getting on the band wagon himself!!! For a man who was fighting against the destruction of the island though buildings he had a big hand in development, but on his terms and done only in what he considered to be tasteful and complementary to the landscape.  But that is only his opinion!!  I think maybe now if he was alive he might be a bit surprised at how his work has actually impacted on the economics of tourism.

There are several places he has designed, the Mirador Del Rio being a popular spot – yes it is an amazing achievement a viewing platform cut out of the volcano side with magnificent views across the bay but costly to enter – especially if you have a big family - and all for a designer viewpoint which incorporates nature but the view technically is there for free.  I’m not sure it doesn’t contravene his values!!

There are other gardens and houses designed by Manrique scattered around the island but we gave most of them a miss we may do them another day – as usual we are trying to fit too much into the days and do too much – We went for a wander through the volcanic lave rubble on the ‘beach’ at Orzola at the northern tip of the island and had tapas for lunch in a beachside café, the wind whipping the serviettes away and while keeping us cool it was slightly hard work trying to be relaxed ha ha…

Eventually we felt we had packed enough art, culture, tapas and café con leches into the day and retired home for a wee siesta and then birthday cocktails – courtesy of two friends back home – at a lovely seafront cocktail lounge.